Thursday, 10 October 2013

Side Construction

Most of the sides documentation is already in other posts but the updated information so far on the sides will be in this post. 

Making biscuit connections in the back connection of the side panels. This really is not needed for strength that much since there is plenty of surface area for the sides of the miters to connect with one another. They are merely used as locaters.

The assembly for my cabinet is going to be a bit tricky and will need to be done in stages.

Whats most likely going to happen is that the sides will be connected with the ikebana and top self as one but will be connected to the base (only as a dry run). Once the side back joint and the other joints connecting to the sides from the shelves are dry than the bottom of the sides will be glued to the base. If I try and do all of it in on go there will be too many clamps and too many hassles.

Connecting the shelves to the sides will be done with a series of clamp blocks and belt clamps ( will talk about this more in depth in the assembly chapter)

Connecting the sides to the base will be done with sach clamps.

The glue I plan on using is epoxy since it wont expand, is very strong, wont need that much and has a huge work time frame. Other glues have too short work times and I'm going to need ample time when assembling this. Of course I will do a dry run first to see where I'm going to need to place the clamps, blocks etc.

Originally I was going to use size 20 biscuits but this wont work. This is because they pock out too much and don't allow the sides to make a finished joint closing.

I decided on using the size 10 biscuits. How I made these biscuits was by using a 10mm back that the biscuiter sat on. This packer also sat on the adjacent joint slant. Having the biscuiter on a packer allowed me to position the joint closer to the top. The closer to the top the more depth I could play with.

When making joints like this with the biscuiter you need to remove the front adjusting height fence. So since the height fence is gone your using the packer as your set height.

This was a bit cumbersome since the angle was at 42.5 deg. I have only seen this work on a 45 deg. The only thing that you needed to make sure of was that the base of the biscuiter was sitting totally flat on the packer and that the packer was sitting flat on the joint.

It was really hard to get this totally accurate. In the end I prob wont using the size 10 biscuits probably will end up making my own. For the joints to close properly I wont mind if the biscuits are a bit loose, like I said they are not for strength more for a locater.

Began cutting the fronts of the sides on the panel saw to get the panel to its finished width. The front angle was 72 deg which meant that the blade needed to be tilted to 18 deg. The finished width of the panels was 546mm.

Making the connection dowels in the bottom of the sides in connection to the dowel holes in the base for the sides. I did not have time yet to remove the over hanged wenge inlay so this meant that I could only use the outside as my reference so I couldn't use the set ups for left and right every joint had to be adjusted. The main crucial measurement is that the mid point of the dowel to the outside of the panel measured 10.5mm. I really only had about .2mm-.3mm tolerance. If the panels sat back from the base edging a bit this would not matter that much since the edgings could easily be planed down so it would be flush with the sides.

I did not so much follow my drawings that much it was more following the holes that were already drilled in the base. Even though these were followed off the drawings I need the panel to match holes in the base just in case there was any human errors that needed to be accounted for.

I used a 10mm dowel drill bit and the holes were going in 35mm. The holes in the base were 20mm. The dowels were 50mm long but I tend to go over a bit just encase there is gunk in the joint or the dowel is slightly longer etc when gluing up.

I made slits in the dowels so they were loose when doing a dry run. This meant that I could remove the panels from the base a lot easier as well as removing the dowels from the joints.

Every thing worked pretty well. A very slight over hang but this could be cleaned up.

There is a small gap at the back but this goes away when pressure is applied to it. The miter edge seems to slightly over hang one another. This is because some of the dowels are prob slightly out. This wont matter as when assembled and dry will sand down this back edge just enough to break it.

The gapes will pull in more when the belt clamps and blocks are applied. Originally I was thinking that I was only going to need 2 belts one at where the shelf panels are but to get better clamp pressure with the back joint of the sides I may need more. Placing around with block placements when clamping up will need to be done when doing a dry run.

In the dry run I will mark where the blocks need to go after finding out whats the best effective clamp procedure. Making marks will make me organized.

This is the left side of the cabinet

The front edge of the bottom section of the left panel got a little damaged on the saw as it pressed up against the blade a bit when exiting the cut. This will be easily fixed up later on.

I have cut the panels further back since I will be adding maple edging here. The right panel had to be cut down slightly due to the right side of the base being 1mm longer than the left and also some of the dowel placements were out. I had to cut down the right panel about 1.5mm shorter in width to the left panel.

I did not want to have two different edging thicknesses it would look messy. To avoid seeing the edge thickness from the outside I would be placing some maple inlay over it. This maple inlay would match in with the other inlay strips. The front edging would be placed down first than the outside side inlay.

This is the right side of the cabinet.

I till need to make the angled edge that is next to these front edgings for the back doors.

Began planing the second beveled edge at the front of the sides that sat above the first 72 deg bevel. This bevel was 7.2 deg. I was really only taking off about 2mm worth of waste in thickness so I decided to do this with the hand plane.

A little bit of trig was involved with this. To get the hand planer to plane in the right spot I had to place the edge of the packer 50mm away from the starting outside point of the bevel.

In the trig calculations the 50mm would represent adjacent of the triangle. The angel that I'm working with in the triangle is 7 deg. Before obtaining where to place the packer we don't actually know that the adjacent section is 50mm.

tan 7 = 0.1228

What we need to find also is the opposite side.

Lets just guess that the opposite side is 10mm,

0.1228= 10/A
A= 10/0.1228
= 81.43

I know that the adjacent section can not be 81 because the planer blade is only 61mm. The planer blade is acting as the hypotenuse. Planer being placed on a 7 deg angle when planing the edge.

So this means that the opposite side length needs to be less than 10mm.

so to get a rought indication as to what the opposite needs to be

sin 7 = o/61

so opposite side = 7.43.

I don't want to try and take off the whole section in one go so my opposite needs to be shorter than this.

So I decided to make my adjacent side 50mm now I need to find opposite angle
so sin 7.2 (actual angle) =o/50
50*sin7.2= 6.3164

So this meant that I needed to make the packer 6.3mm thick. I actually just rounded the packer to 6mm in thickness.

The more I increased the distance (adjacent length) of the front edge of the packer to the starting point of the bevel meant that I would be taking less off the bevel as I made my way to the top section of it. I worked out that I stopped to about 60mm mark.

Now it didnt matter if this was not 100 percent accurate I could do some final tweaking later as when this bevel is made some edging will go on it to hide the plywood face so again some further tweaking will need to take place especially the connection point with the edge of the top carcass panel to this beveled edge.

It is a very shallow bevel but its what the back doors rest up against to get their closing angle also the front outer edged of the top carcass panel also its on this as well.

Making the break cuts with the circular saw for the front maple inlay rebate. This rebate was going to be the same as the rest 2.5mm deep and 16mm wide.

Doing the same for the inside front inlay rebate.

These strips are to cover the front edge of the sides. They are 5mm thick which will be put through my drum sander to bring down to its finished thickness. They were cut 22mm wide the beveled edge was about 20mm ( 19.7mm to be exact)

Routering out the waste sections of the inlay rebate with the hand router.

Doing the same on the wenge side.

I did a dry run of the cabinet sides to the base again to make sure to get the right thickness of the front edgings. I ended up sanding the edgings down to 3.5mm in thickness.

Sadly I sanded the side edgings down to much in the width and needed to make the inlay rebates (just for the outside deeper), only by a couple of mm.

The front edgings when glued to the sides needed to over hang the beveled edge since they would be planed down to the same angle as the top smaller bevel so they had to sit just above this bevel ( bottom section) Also the bottom of the edging as well had to over hang since it was going to be cleaned out with the router to be covered properly with the inlay edging.

Again also needed to re route the rebates again.

Glued the front edgings to the side panels and left for 2 hours to dry. I just used the painters tape to act as a clamp since it was in a difficult area to clamp. I used tight bond 3 for the glue.

I used the same trig planing process to clean down the front edging over hang so it would continue the same angle. 

As for the other side I set up a fence for the planer to rest up against while planing down the over hang maple

Applying the glue to the inlay housings for the maple to be clamped in. These sections are the outside section at the front of the sides.

Clamped down inlay strips. These will be left for about 2 hours before taking off the clamps.

Sanding down the wenge inlay edges for the front inside inlay housings.

As for the very front angled edge I will be veneering over this with some maple veneer that I had left over. I want the veneer to be flush with the front edge of the wenge inlay strips.

I had to cut a bit of veneer to pack up the inlay here since it dropped down to much due to a mistake in the depth of the housing here.

Clamped down the wenge inlay and glued it into the housing with tight bond 3. This will be left for 2 hours. I used clamp cauls to spread out the clamp pressure and also not to damage the strips.

Planing down the front maple inlay strips so they would be flush with the maple front edging. These edges of the inlay strips needed to be the same angle as the front sides. This was quite easy to achieve since the shoe of the hand planer ran against the angled front edging so I was able to obtain the required angled cut onto the over hanged inlay sections.

I final clean up I adjusted the planer so I was not taking that much off after that I used a thin cabinet scraper.

Making the spline grooves that will hold up the ikebana base panel, top carcass panel and top drawer base panel.

The grooves had to be 4-4.5mm wide and 15mm deep. I did not run the grooves right to the ends as this would damage the feature sections. I had to run the grooves into two passes since the blade for the saw is only 2.3mm wide.

Before making any cuts I made all the reference lines that I needed to refer to before making the cut.

Grooves all made.

Making the grooves to attach the drawer runners to. These also had to be done in two passes, cut stopping about 50mm away from th edge. The grooves were only 3mm deep.

Sanding drawer runner material. I'm only sanding it to its finished thickness which was 8mm. The widths have to be cut down since I'm changing the width specifications, making them thinner. These will be cut down on the band saw at tafe than have the grooves made in them on the spindle moulder. The grooves will be 4mm wide and 3mm deep.

Covering up the front section with veneer next to the wenge inlay. Originally I was going to use maple veneer but than remember how transparent it was and that the small sections of the wenge inlay would show up under it and would not look good.

I decided on using wenge veneer which is a light lighter than the wenge solid timber. I did not mind this as it gave another interesting feature.

First to have a clean joint with the veneer to the inlay strip I needed to clean the inside edge. I decided on using my router veneer jig to clean up the joints.

Sadly I have not had time to modify the jig so it meant cleaning the edges in stages.

Clamping down the veneer I used blue painters tape to prevent the veneer from slipping when clamping the bakers paper and cauls down onto it.

I decided on using these type of F- clamps as even though its on an angled surface I could still provide effective clamp pressure due to the clamp pads being able to angle.

Clamped up and weighting to dry, the glue I used was tight bond 3.

I was only cutting off 3mm on the ends of the sides to remove the damaged edges.

I had to cut some of the back edge of on the sides due to it being damaged. This managed to happen from all the times carting it back from tafe to my work shop.

I had though about adding paduke edging to it than shape to create the same angle again so when put together you will see a red paduke line right down the middle creating another feature to the cabinet.

Instead I'll add in this edging when the whole cabinet it together. Once together ill glue a strip of paduke into the trenching than shape after wards if necessary.

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