The most up to date drawer box construction process pics are located in this page now since there other one is having problems with saving since there is too much information in the file.
I found this safety video for the 120 kapex festool drop saw done by the wood whisper. Found it really helpful. The principals in it can really be applied to any drop saw not just this one.
I just bought a 120 Kapex festool drop saw. I mainly bought this to do my compound angles for the edging for my doors but also for some other the other angled components like the rails, drawer box parts etc. When dealing with angles where there is 2 different types built into one joint this saw will work hand in hand with the bench saw. This will make things a lot easier allowing me to make tweaked adjustments to each angle.
After doing some tests with it and the new veritas angle gauge and bevel square I found that my original angle gauge was out by 1/2 a deg which would mean why my angles for my rails were out.
Mitering drawer slips for drawer box bases.
Mitering the drawer slips to be attached to the drawer box bottoms. This new saw makes mitering so easy, its a lot more accurate than the saw bench and a lot quicker to set up almost halving set up time now.
The drawer slips are quite delicate so it meant that I had to drop the speed of the saw. I dropped the speed down to speed 3 which its top speed is 6. To avoid blow out from the bottom I placed a break board I also started to use the blue painters tape to also prevent further breakout.
Unfortunately One of the drawer slips on the bottom face blew out even on the low cutting speed. I will be able to fix this it will just mean I'll have to use some crazy fix up skills. When fixing this the piece will be curved the human eye finds it harder to pick up a fixed up curve compared to if it was just straight.
One drawer box bottom ready to have the drawer slips attached to it. I had to make sure that one of the faces specifically faced the top. The top section had to be the 2.5mm lip not the 2mm lip. To avoid confusion I marked the faces that needed to be the top. I also named what side parts they were and what drawer bottoms they were going to be matched with.
I had another blow out on one of the small sections but not as bad. I found that I had to take a lot of care when cutting the small pieces since they were more prone to blowing out compared to the others.
All ready to have the parts sanded up and glued up. I still have not decided whether it will be best to put in the router based inlay first than attached the drawer slips. Some of the drawer box base rebates need to be cleaned down a bit since they are a bit tight to fit into the drawer slip rebates. Also some of the bases are bowed this will mean when putting in the spline rebate for it to attach to the sides I will defiantly need to use feather boards to keep the pieces flat while machining over the spindal moulder.
Gluing the drawer slips to drawer box bases
Beginning to glue the drawer slips to the drawer box bases. Before doing this I needed to plan down the drawer box base rebates. I wanted a nice sliding fit with the drawer slips to the rebates as I know when I add in glue it will cause friction making it harder to push into place.
I also sanded down the edges of the rebates so it would slide into the drawer slip trenching better.
I used tight bond 3 glue. With the glue application you don't want to add heaps as you will get too much squeeze out making it annoying to clean up later on. I used a small painting brush as a glue brush to get glue into the drawer slip rebates.
I taped the drawer slips to the base to prevent movement. The blue painters tape acted as a clamp device.
I managed to find a piece of wenge offcut that match the same as to the damaged piece in grain patter. I shaped it to the blown out shape but will glue it in later when the drawer slips are already glued to the bases.
Machining the spline connector rebates to the drawer front sides, backs and fronts which will connect to the drawer box base.
These spline rebates are 4.5mm wide and 6mm deep. The splines will be about 4.2-4.3mm in thickness. You don't want a very tight fit with this since it will make things problematic when assembling.
Rebates all made. The next step is to have the rebate slots made in the drawer box bases
Repair piece ready to be glued into the drawer box slip once all slips are glued to the base. Some of the part sticks out a bit but this will be further cleaned up when it is glued in place into the drawer slip.
Applying glue to the rebates and drawer slip channels, than assembly.
Machining the splines for the drawer box bases. These were made from some Fijian Mahogany that was left in the scrap rack at tafe.
First I dressed the pieces through the jointer and thicknesser. After this I ripped the pieces in half using the T fence on the jointer. Good thing about the band saw is you waste less but also wont get as much breakage as doing it on the saw also you don't get kick back.
I had to run one of the halves through the thicknesser to get a clean edge before cutting it to size on the band saw. 1 cut these strips into 10mm widths. After this I than cut them again into 7mm strips in the other direction.
I machined the splines down through the thicknesser at 8mm wide to 4.5mm thick. The last of the thicknessing will be done through my drum sander in my own work shop. I will also cut them to size in my own work shop as well.
Planing down the over hanging sections of the drawer slips to the bases for the tops. Most of the planing was done with just the spoke shave blade. I made sure that it was really sharp as your using it like a cabinet scraper. After all the planing was done I used the card scrapers to clean up any marks made from the spoke shave blade on the edging and the veneer.
Panels are now ready to have the spline rebates made in them which I will be doing them on the spindle moulder at my work.
Set up the spindle moulder to make the spline rebates in the drawer box bases. I made a fake fence first with a small opening in it for the blade to pock through. I only needed the blade to poke through by 5mm since this is how deep the spline rebates were.
I needed the saw gap to be limited as possible so there was still some surface area for the drawer box base drawer slip to rest up against when being machined. If there was no surface area for it to rest up against it would tip into the cavity and totally break apart.
I needed to use a feather board to keep the panels flat since some of them were a bit bowed.
I did a test run on some scrap that I machined to the same thickness as the drawer slip. I needed to see how well it machined since the blades were a bit blunt and also needed to see whether I had to change the speed. The current speed for the spindle moulder was 6000 RPM.
I did tests on a machined piece of scrap that I made the same thickness as the drawer slip. The blade was 4.5 mm thick which is what the width of the trench was with the drawer box sides, backs and front when machined on the panel saw at tafe.
This meant that the shoulders on each side of the rebate had to be about 1.7mm.
I was a little bit concerned about this since wenge does tend to split out a lot. I actually did not have any problems with it which was good. There was a bit of split out on the exit cut but this did not mater since it disappeared when finishing off the rebate on the next drawer slip.
Accidentally cut off too much on one of the front drawer box lids. I could not afford to make a new one. Lucky most of this would be cut off and would not be noticeable. Also where the joint line was going to be would be covered up with the side inlay section. You would only see the cut line in the rebate that the lid sits in.
I glued the piece back together with super glue straight way and lined it up as best as I could.
Due to some alterations made with the front drawer front I had to change the sizing of the diamond housing. It was not going to be the same as the lids it had to be smaller. The diamond housing including the edging had to be 47mm long in both directions.
The housing had to be 8mm deep after the diamond housing maple base plate was put in. It could not go in deeper as I had to make a design modification to the coin attachment and going into deep like the diamond housings for the lids would mean I would not be able to achieve it.
The housing needed to drop down by 18mm so it would not interfere with the lid rebate on the other side. And also be far enough away from the bottem where it would not interfere with the drawer box base groove.
The edgings in the diamond housing had to be 3 mm wide not 5mm. If they were 5mm there would not be enough room for the coin but also not enough room to get your finger in to pull the coin.
I also came up with a modification attachment for the drawer box lids in attaching the coin. This attachment will be different to the drawer box front.
Diamond housings in drawer box fronts.
To begin machining the diamond housings I had to make stop cut holes in the corners. These holes are where the router bit would stop before going into the corners.
The diamond housings had to be altered due to the modifications made to the drawer box lid rebate and the bottom groove for the drawer box bottoms.
They only had to be made smaller. Also I came up with a different attachment design for the Japanese coin so the housings had to be made shallower.
The holes were 10mm in diameter and were 10.5mm deep. They needed to be this deep to account for the 2mm maple housing plate added also I needed enough thickness to account for the tas oak dowel going into the middle that would be holding the red cord that would be attached to the Japanese coin. ( will go into more detail with this when I get there)
The drawer box fronts were 16mm in thickness. So there would be plenty of room to add in the tas oak dowel since the housing would only be 8.5mm deep even when including the 2mm maple base plate.
The wenge edging would not be like the lids where they were 5mm wide. They would be 3mm wide. They are decrease since the housing is decreased I needed enough room to be able to hold the coin plus pull it to move the drawer box.
All holes drilled into the drawer box fronts. Now they need to be routered out.
Band sawing the diamond housing edges. These are just to rough thickness they will be further sized through my drum sander in my work shop.
I also band sawed the jarra pieces into 2.5mm strips. These would be added to the angled front edges. ( modification to drawer box fronts. )
Cutting the back miters for the drawer box fronts. I have now realized that it would have been better to cut the backs first than sides than the fronts.
Cutting out the waste sections for the diamond housings. I used a trim router with a small 4mm router bit. This router I will be using for all the router based inlay.
To put less strain on the cutter I did the waste removal in two passes.
When doing each pass I had to set up a fence that was 42mm away from the finished housing line. This is the same measurement from the edge of the cutter to the router base plate that would be restin up against the fence.
First layer taken out.
All 4 done and now ready to make the second pass.
I have not bothered to go right into the corners since it will be safer to clean these by hand with my chisels and brass mallet.
All four housings made and now need to have the corners cleaned out with the chisels.
Used a clamped block to act as a guide for the chisel to rest up against while pairing out the waste from the diamond housing.
Sanded and cut some maple base plates to cover up the bottom ply section of the housing. I wanted the grain for these to go in the same direction as the grain on the drawer fronts.
To cut the diamond shapes I just used my Japanese saw. The cut did not need to be super accurate since if there was any little gaps these would be covered up by the wenge edging.
Glued the maple housing plates down into the housings. I used tight bond 3 for this. Just need to have them clamped up for about 2 hours. I used small clamp blocks to provide extra pressure and not to damage housing plate.
Drilled the housing holes for the decorative cord plug to sit in. Originally I wanted the hole to be 5mm in depth but had to change it to 4mm. This is because if I went any further it would blow a hole through to the other side due to the point of the fortsner drill bit.
The diameter of the holes are 16mm. I only choose a 16mm hole not necessarily it would be easier to make the cord housing on the back of it due to its size but I already had a jig to cut these plugs. ( old jig that I used to cut the plugs for the magnet housings plugs for the doors.
The plug will be made exactly 4mm. I can not afford to cut it down after gluing it in as the cord will be in the way. The plug gets attached into the housing with epozy at the very end when the cord is attached to it with the coin. This will be done in the fit up stage.
Drilling the holes in the drawer box lids for the decorative cord to loop through. This attachment system for the coins is a lot different to the drawer fronts. The cord is 2mm in thickness so I decided on using a 2.5mm drill on the horizontal borer to make the holes.
I used blue painters tape to prevent blow out. The holes are 30mm in from the sides of the were the diamond housing edges begin, so the holes are 20mm apart from one another. They are located in the middle.
A housing will be made later on for the cord to sit in. This is so the cord is not hanging out side which will interfere with the lids in closing, also it will look messy. Over the housing will be a paduke rectangle plug. This will be glued in. The housing will be made with a 6mm diameter mortise bit. The ends will be cleaned up to create square ends so the plug fits in properly.
Another way of making the plug is machining a paduke tenon the size of the mortise than cutting off the tenon and gluing it into the housing. The glue up for this wont be done till the fit up stage.
The cord will loop through both ends than platted than attach to the coin.
Drilling the cord holes for the smaller lids. The lids could not be clamped down. So I had to hold them in position while drilling. There was not much resistance since it was only a 2.5mm drill bit. Although I had to use a fence for it to rest up against.
Using the dowel plug jig that I used for making the plugs to go over the magnet housings for the doors. I'm making tas oak 4mm thick plugs for the connection point for the red cord to the japanese coin.
Dowel plugs cut.
Drilling in the 2.5mm hole that will go right through the whole plug. This whole is located in the middle of the plug.