Thursday, 18 July 2013

Drawer box construction.

Cleaning off the dried polyurethane glue from the edges of the drawer box sides, backs and fronts. One of the edges will be run over the jointer to get a flat square edge. This will than be used as a reference point to rest up against the panel saw fence to clean up the other side and remove the offset sections.

I was just cleaning off the glue with a rasp. Locked the parts in the bench vice but padded it with rags so it would not damage the already sanded faces.

Before cutting off the offset sections the top and bottom edges need to be run over the jointer to become square. I need them square so they can be used as a reference point to run up against the panel saw fence. I marked the ends as to what parts they were where they were going and what was the bottom edge which a arrow indicated the bottom edge.

Once ran over the jointer a marking would be added to it to tell me which ends were square.

Cleaning the edges on the jointer to be used as reference points on the panel saw fence. I used the far edge of the jointer blades to get a better cut since this section of the blades don't get used that much.

Marking out the offset sections to be taken off on the parts. I needed to make sure more so on the outside of the fronts that I did not alter the grain matching pattern that much. The panels needed to be cut down to 70mm before the edging was added to them. First I cut one side off than cleaned that edge on the jointer than marked that edge so I would know I had already run that edge over the jointer.

For the second pass I cut the panels to 71mm. This last 1mm would be cleaned off on the jointer. I dropped the jointer in feed table down to a take off cut of .5mm. You want to be careful more so with the smaller pieces not to get snipe at the fronts of backs.

Drawer panels ready to have the edging glued to them.

First I had to machine up some scrap stock to have as clamping cauls that would not damage the ends plus disperse the clamping pressure out evenly across the whole panel edge.

I machined these to 20mm wide to 14mm thick. The clamping caul pieces were about 10mm longer at each end to the length of the panels.

Placed down blue painters tape near the edges to stop a lot of the glue going onto the veneered panels.

Gluing down the edges to the panels. With these you want to get even or pretty close over hang on either face. You want to add tap over the ends to prevent slipping and before clamping up you want to leave them for about 5 mins so the glue has a chance to become tacking. This is so when clamping up they don't move around heaps. Also when clamping up you dont want to ad heaps of pressure.

I had though about making small splines or small dowels for this but though this maybe going a little bit over board. This was more so to get an even over hang. I know that the top section is going to have a rebate so even if the edges were not quite even you would notice it at much.

If doing a spline rebate it would have to be right down the middle of the edging on the glue line.The timber edgings are only 5mm in thickness, the spline trench would make this really weak even if the trench was only 2mm in depth.  Doing this may just cause heaps of issues as would be quite dangerous to machine them. If doing dowels which would be the best option you could use BBQ skewers as small dowels

Most of the difference in over hang was about .5mm-1mm so not that much. The worst edge I will be placing at the bottom.

For the bigger pieces I ran two sach clamps at the bottom and one over the top in the middle to prevent spring out also to prevent twisting and cupping. With the middle sach clamp you want to add small timber pieces to prevent the sach clamps from sticking to the panels. This can some times leave nasty rust metal marks but that really depends on how clean your sach clamps are.

Adding tape to the back pieces.

Clamping up the back pieces. The back pieces did not need a middle clamp. These drawer sides and backs only need to be clamped up for about an hour. I was using tight bond 1 about 80 percent of the curing happens within the first hour.

I needed to remove the tape from the panels to prevent the adhesive really sticking in to the veneer.

The panels are now ready to have the edgings cut down to be flush with the veneer panels. I will be using a spoke shave with a flat bottom.

Placing the blue painters tape near the edges to prevent glue going onto the veneer.

Began gluing the edgings to the drawer box fronts. This time I decided on using tight bond 3. I like how it is a bit more gritty compared to tight bond 1 and doesn't slide as much when you clamp it up. I still left them for a little bit to get more tacky before clamping up.

Another reason why I used tight bond 3 was because it gets quite cold in my work shop so I wanted to use a glue that was more prone to moisture.

Will be leaving these in the clamps for about 2 hours than taking them out and cleaning off the tape.

Began planing down the over hang inlay sections on the drawer sides, backs and fronts. The wenge was quite easy to plane with the spoke shave compared to the maple. With the maple due to the alternating grain direction I had to change directions when I planned it. It was quite annoying at times as some sections the grain changed than it went back to the other direction than changed again.

I talked about earlier it would have been best to make small dowel locators.  This is the reason why there is about 1mm difference in the edgings. I know the top section wont matter so much since a rebate will be made.

More spoke shaving. The dog tail stops really help and hold in the pieces quite well when hand planing. Takes away the need for an 'F' clamp which just gets in the way.

For the backs they were too short so I had to use a scrap piece of timber to pack it out so I could use the dog tail stops to clamp the piece while I planed down the edgings.

Edgings for drawer box lids 

Began making the angles on the edgings for the drawer box lids. These were quite annoying angles. I did the angled cuts on test pieces first to make sure that I had got the right angle set up. It was more annoying when I had to cut the really acute angles.

First angle made on the edging.

When I made the cuts I thought it would be best to name the angle sections on the edgings and also the panels. This would create less confusion when coming to glue up.

I split everything u into there sets again to create less confusion. These are the bottom lids.

Top lid sections.

Due to some of the edgings being really acute and the table saw having limitations on how far it could slide back I had to add a scrap piece of timber to the cross cutting fence to pack it up so I could make the cut. When making each cut I used blue painters tape to stop the break out. 

For some of the angles they were too acute so I had to make some jigs to allow me to be able to make the angled cut.

For example one of the miter joints required two different angles. Both of the angles had to meet up to 72 deg. the first angle I cut the piece of timber to 57.5 deg. The next angle had to be cut to 14.5 deg on a very acute line of cut. So setting up the fence angle to 72 deg. I used the 57.5 deg jig and placed the edging on the 57.5 deg slant. I packed another piece of timber under this to give more support of the edging.

I was able to get the right deg of cut its just there were a few problems. The first main problem was this was way to dangerous as hands came to close to the blade. Another thing was that it was causing way too much break out even when tape was added. I could have added in a break out board piece but this would be getting int the way.

I decided to go about this at another approach. I had to do this for some angles on edgings for another project. To get a really acute angled miter and to do it safely you can cut about 1mm away from the joint line of the angle and sand it on a disc sander. This required me making all the angled jigs I needed for the acute angled edgings. This would make things a lot safer and would also create a clean joint.

The angled jigs I was going to need for the acute edgings. So I didn't have heaps of angled jigs I use the other ends for other angles as well.

I began making the stop cut slits on the drawer sides, backs and fronts for the rebates. This stop cut would act as a break point when routing out the rest on the upside down router.

I had to make sure that I was doing the rebate on the right edge. I wanted the veneer to be a folded matching right around, besides the front which was a book matching to the adjacent drawer front.

Now the rebates had to be deeper and wider. I forgot about adding in the 1mm gaping around the drawer box lids. Also I needed to add in maple edgings to the rebates to cover up the plywood faces. I also wanted the drawer box lids to sit about 1mm below the tops of the fronts, sides and backs. I decided on making the maple edgings 2mm in thickness.

Now to remove the waste from the rebates I had to do it in two passes to avoid massive break out. I was cutting it pretty thin with the small amount of edging left on the sides, and backs when the rebate was gone. I was not so fust about the fronts since they were 4mm thicker in thickness compared to the sides and backs which were 12mm in thickness. The fronts were 16mm in thickness.

I used a feather board to create downward pressure on the pieces when routering them but also to prevent blow out.

Rebates all cut and now are ready to have the maple edgings added to them. Now edgings for the bottom of the rebates will be laid down first than the sides. This is to prevent the sight of a gap if there is one when looking down from the top.

There were some little chip outs on the wenge but I can fix this with a little super glue trick which I will talk about later on.

For the edgings the choice of using tight bond 1 was probably not the best choice. This is because some of the wenge edgings on two of the pieces came apart. To prevent massive blow out I decided on using some 5 min araldite to glue these sections back together. I wanted about 30 minutes before making the next pass on these pieces through the upside down router.

I also added a small strip of timber at the feed out section from the router fence. This piece of timber was about .5mm thiner than the height of the rebates. Adding this in creates extra support when feeding the piece into the outfeed section preventing the end section from falling down onto the cuter due to limited surface area pressure.

Began cutting strips for the rebate edgings for the drawer boxes. To get a reference that I could use on the 'T' fence on the band saw I had to clean one edge on the jointer.

These strips were just for the side edgings not the bottoms I did not have enough for the bottoms.

I thicknessed down the strips to 3.5mm. I used the sled to prevent the rollers from snapping the pieces and set the speed of the jointer to 1. I also only took off .5mm each pass. The rest of the stop will be taken off through the drum sander in my work shop.

Began ripping down the maple strips for the bottom rebate sections of the drawer box sides, fronts and backs. I ripped them over size since they would be sanded down before being glued into the rebates. The bottom sections would need to be glued down first before the sides. Currently the strips are 3mm in thickness. They will be finishing at 1mm in thickness.

Sanding the strips through the drum sander. The minium the sander can go down to is .8mm so I just scrapped in with the required 1mm thickness.

As for the width I wanted the strips to sit flush with the inside panel face. The width was going to be 7mm.

Cutting the maple strips to length before gluing down.

I had to make some clamp cauls out of scrap MDF to provide even pressure over the whole strip but also to protect them from the clamps.

Placed painters tape down on the veneer face near the rebate to prevent unnecessary spillage of glue.

Bottom strip sections glued down and waiting to dry. These will be clamped up for about 2 hours. The glue I used was tight bond 3.

Sanding down the side strips for the rebates. These needed to be 17mm in width and 2mm in thickness. To get a better result when sanding the pieces through the drum sander I used two pieces of MDF scrap to act as a clamping method when running through the drum sander.

This increased the surface area and prevented the pieces of tilting and tipping over when being fed through the drum sander.

For this to work you need to place pressure on the MDF pieces to hold together the bunch of strips.

Cutting the strips to length.

Finishing off gluing some of the bottom strips for the rebates.

Side strips being glued down.

Placed a 45 deg bevel on the edges of the drawer sides, fronts and backs. These edges will need to be sanded as well since some of the edges did not come out too well due to chip out and some of the edges were not totally square from planing.

Finishing the angles on the edgings for the drawer box lids that I could do on the panel saw. The really acute angles for some of the edging I am going to have to do by hand. Even with using the sander with the angled jigs it burns it too much and creates break out.

What I will need to do is mark out the angles I need to cut and cut with my Japanese hand saw 1mm away from the internal miter length mark. Than with a very sharp chisel pare out the last section of it.

Before getting too ahead with the edging the coin handel housing need to be removed before the edges are glue down. What I'm doing here is marking out the housing sections. At the top of the housing I will be drilling a 13mm deep hole. This hole acts as a stop mark for the router. The smaller off cut sections around it will be chiseled out.

Drilled stop cut points into the top ends of the diamond housings for the drawer box lids on the pedestal drill at work. These holes were 10mm in diameter and were 12mm deep.

Making stop cuts to the sides of the diamond housings. I would be stopping the saw in the drilled stop cut hole. The depth of the cut was 12mm. I need to make the cut 2mm deeper than the drawings because a maple bottom floor section was going to be added to it so you would not see the plywood face.

All drawer box lids have stop cuts made to diamond housing sections.

Made stringy inlay slit which was right down the middle of the lid. This stringy inlay rebate would be where th Paduk is going to go.

Stringy inlay rebates made.

Beginning to router out the diamond housing sections. I had to do this in two passes not just because the cutters were a bit blunt but to place less pressure on router and cutter.

First layer routered out on the bottom lid section.

Cleaning out first layer in top lid section. The top lid section was the most annoying as it was hard to get effective clamp pressure without having the clamps in the way of the router base.

Major waste sections removed from bottom drawer box lid section.

Major waste sections removed from top drawer box lid section.

Soaking the router bit in cleaning spray to break down the grit on the blades.

Cleaning out the rest of the waste that could not be cleaned up with the router with chisel and mallet.

All drawer box lids now have diamond housing sections cleaned and are now ready to have the maple rebate floor section added to them.

I wanted to have the top lid section and the bottom lid sections maple rebate flooring matching in grain to one another. I made sure to mark out the connection points with each drawer box lid.

 It doesn't matter if the maple bottom sections have gaps near the edges of the housings as these will be hidden later on when the wenge miter edging is added inside the housing.

Cutting out the maple pieces on the band saw.

Lightly sanding them on the disc sander.

Clamping in the maple pieces into the diamond housings. I used clamp blocks to spread out the clamp pressure and also not to damage the maple pieces. These were glued in with tight bond 1 and were left to dry for 2 hours. 

I made some jigs so I could cut the really acute angles for the edgings for the drawer box lids. To get these cuts what I did was I made a cut on the top plate that was the opposing angle in the miter to this specific edging. I also made the same cut on the bottom plate. Next I set the cross cut fence to the finished angle that both of the edgings would be making up.

Doing it this way would mean that the cut made on the edging would make up the other angle in the joint. I added a toggle clamp to give better clamp pressure and also to keep my hands safe away from the blade. I added some painters tape near the joint to prevent blow out. The bottom plate is to hold up the edging and allow the toggle clamp to hold it in place. The top plate is acting as a fence.

Mitered edgings in progress.

Close up of the cutting job.

Masking off the ends of the panel with painters tape before adding glue and attaching the edgings.

Some of the edgings had to be clamped up with clamps since some of the edgings were a bit bowed.

Bottom drawer box lids all have their edges glued to them and will be left for 2 hours to dry.

Making the mitered joints for the edgings for the top drawer box lid sections. Since some of the angles for this were even more acute I needed to add in a the clamp pressure plate for my saw on the cross cut fence. This is because I did not have anywhere else to clamp down the top plate. I had to use the small left over area to clamp another clamp to the cross cut fence since it lost its secondary clamp pin due to needing to have the cross cut fence moved away from the support table.

There were quite  a few different jigs I needed to make with these acute miters so I wanted to make the jigs as simple as possible.

Each miter joint required me to do a test joint.

Making the last miter joint that required a jig.

Masking off the edges of the panels before gluing on the edgings.

I ran out of blue painters tape and needed to use white masking tape instead. This will be clamped up for 2 hours. The glue I used was tight bond 3.

Drawer box bottoms. 

Making the stop cuts for the rebate sections for the drawer box bases. This rebate section is the connection point for the drawer box slip. The rebates are only 8mm wide and 2mm deep.

Stop cuts made from the circular saw.

Began planing the maple and wenge edgings down on the drawer box lids to make them flush with the veneer panel faces. I really only used the large hand plane (no 5 jack plane) to do most of the work on the large edging. The other smaller edgings was just with the spoke shave.

I did not plane the middle section of the back edging where the housing was I would be finishing this off then the other mitered edgings are but in place inside the housing.

Edging has a bump but will be taken out when the other internal edges are added into the housing.

Planing the smaller drawer box lids. The same thing with the back middle edging section was done on these lids as well.

The drawer box lids will have a 45 deg bevel placed onto the edges as well.

Removing the waste sections from the drawer box bottom internal face sections. I used the hand router to remove the waste the rebates were only going 2mm in depth and 8mm in with.

Made a mistake with the top section which required me to cut out a piece of wenge timber and glue it down than reshape. It wasn't too big and would be hardly noticeable since there would be shadows created from the sides of the drawer boxes.

Used blue tape to prevent excess glue from leaking onto the rest of the veneered panel.

Clamped down and will be left for about an hour before reshaping.

Also damaged one of the bottom sections on one of the other bases.

This followed the same steps as the other stuff up.

Cutting the stringy inlay rebates in the middle veneer section of the maple veneer faces of the drawer box bases.

The stringy inlay rebate was only 2mm wide by 3mm deep. In this rebate would be paduke.

Fix ups repaired.

Stringy inlay rebates made and are now ready to have the paduke glued into them.

Sanded down the edges of the edgings that were going to be fitting into the diamond housing sections of the drawer box lids.

Cutting the wenge edgings to over size for mitering.

Cutting the miters for the wenge edgings on the tabl saw. The top miters for the diamond housing were 33.7 deg each. One of the bottom miter connections was 27.5 deg each and the other side was 29.5 deg each.

I found that these edgings needed to be re sanded to make them all the same thickness. These pieces here are 60mm in length. If your sanding small pieces like this through a drum sander you need to make sure you have a scrap piece of timber passing through behind it the same thickness or thiner. This will prevent the pieces getting stuck in the sander and causing ripple marks on the timber.

Half way through mitering the edgings.

Before gluing in the edgings. I needed to sand the maple base of the diamond housing getting rid of any grit, scratches or tape adhesive.

I only used enough tight bond 3 glue to prevent bleed out. I did not want to clean this out of the diamond housing since it would be really annoying due to the limited space in side. I used a small paint brush to apply small amounts of glue.

Clamping the edgings to the drawer box lid diamond housing sections. These will need to be left in the clamps for 2 hours.

Machining the paduke stringy inlay and getting it ready to be blued into the rebates for the drawer box bases.

To get effective clamp pressure I used some of the old small convex clamp beams I had made earlier in the process for this project.

Inlay sections clamped up and will be left for about 2 hours.

Using the spoke shave to clean up the last of the wenge edgings on the drawer box lids.

Edgings all clean up. Next will be gluing the stringy inlay into the rebates.

Sanding down the paduke laminates and wenge laminates to their finished sizes to glue together to form the drawer slips. The internal wenge laminate had to finish at 9mm the outer wenge laminate had to finish at 4mm and the middle laminate which was the paduke had to finish at 2mm.

Before gluing the faces together with the polyurethane glue I scored the faces with hand saw to create a better bonding surface.

Applying the polyurethane to the laminate glue faces. Used a spray bottle to wet the glue surface first to kick start the curing process.

Clamped up the laminates between some clamp cauls which will be left for over four hours.

Cleaning out the top miter for where the end of the paduke stringy inlay rebate had to go. Just did this with some flat chisels and brass mallet.

The stringy inlay rebate section had to be 2mm wide by 3mm deep.

Doing a dry run first for the stringy inlay than gluing in. I wanted the inlay to stick over the veneer surface a bit as I would be cleaning it down later on. I want to try and keep a very bright coloured surface. Cleaning it now would mean that it would than become darker due to oxidization. To limit the oxidization I will make it the last thing to do before I apply the oil.

Glued stringy inlay paduke into the drawer box lids. I used tight bond 3, this will be left to dry for about 2 hours.

To limit break out I used a mdf fence the back of the fence gets cut into and acts as a breaker to prevent breakout and splitting. This is really good for when cutting really thin pieces of timber.

Cleaning off some of the dried polyurethane glue with the rasp before running it over the jointer blades.

Running drawer slip laminates over jointer with test mortise leg pieces.

When running through the thicknesser I just wanted to take off the least amount this was merely just to clean the edges. I wanted to get as much out of the laminates as possible. I did not just want to cover the amount of material that was needed for the drawer slips I wanted to have some left over just encase I needed to use some to replace mistakes.

Ripping down the drawer slip laminates on the panel saw at work. The drawer slips had to finish at 8mm in thickness. I machined the laminates into 9mm strips. I would be cleaning the edges through my drum sander in my work shop.

Running the drawer slip material through the drum sander to finish at the 8mm thickness that was required. These now will have the grooves made in them to be attached to the base than mitered.

The drawer slips will rap around the drawer box base. The base has a rebate which will sit into the rebate in the drawer slips. I don't want a tight fit as I want a little bit of movement but not where its really sloppy.

Once the drawer slips are attached to the base they will than have another rebate made to them on the outside. This will be a spline rebate that will connect into its partner rebate which will be placed on the drawer box sides, back and fronts.

I did a test to see how I was going to approach in machining the drawer slip rebate. I found that I was really going to need to involve feather boards. They were needed to provide inward pressure on the drawer slip piece to the fence to keep it running parallel with the saw blade.

I also needed to keep down ward pressure to prevent the draw slip pieces from raising up.

I needed to also place down a cover plate to cover up the saw blade cavity preventing the small parts from falling down into the gap.

To make the feather boards I had to cut the fingers for it on the saw. The fingers were 5mm wide and were about 150mm long. To avoid the unnecessary calculations of where to move the fence next when making the next cut I just used a 8mm packer.

When you make a cut furn the saw off when blade has stopped move fence and place 8mm wide packer in between board and fence. Lock fence down take board out and start next cut, repeat this till you get to the end.

Packer placed in between board and saw, setting up for the next cut.

First feather board made which this will be the one clamped to the table that will provide inward pressure to the drawer slip to the fence.

Before I made the slits in the feather board I found that cutting the board at a 30 angle gave a far better pressure surface area to the part you were cutting. 

For more info on making a feather board go to this link on youtube. It is a 3 part video. This is where I got most of the information for making a feather board. I did not bother making a universal feather board since My track in my table saw is way to close to the blade.

The bottom feather board would be clamped like this. Although it would need to be packed up to be level with the drawer slip since the drawer slip will be sitting on a packer when being cut to prevent it falling down into the saw cavity.

I made another feather board which would be clamped to the fence and sitting just above the drawer slip. Now both feather boards just need to sit before the blade. Also the short side of the feather board must be facing the user for it to work properly.

Feather boards sitting just before the blade.

Taping down the packer plate to cover up the saw cavity. I did a test on some scrap that I machined to the same dimensions as the drawer slips.

Testing fit. Some of the tongue sections of the plywood of the bases are a bit tight but I can easily loosen them with a spoke shave blade.

The top section of the drawer slip I want to have about 2.5mm ( the top rebate of the drawer box base is 2mm, the over hanged section I would clean up with a card scraper.) The actual rebate of the drawer slip will be just over 4mm, around the 4.5mm mark. Rebate for the bottom section of the drawer base is 4mm.

The drawer slip will be 9mm deep the rebate of the base is 8mm wide. This means that the bottom section of the drawer slip will be 1.5mm. This is why its so important that everything is spot on in this circumstance.

Set ready. I found after running a few I needed to clamp a block down at the exit point to keep the drawer slip from kicking up. I found it was best to use a small piece of scrap to press the drawer slip down when it was on the blade. I also used a piece of scrap that was machined the same as the drawer slip and followed it through after the drawer slip to help push it through. The area wasnt big enough to use a push stick.

This set up required two passes since the saw blade is only about 3.2mm in thickness.

Drawer slips machines and are now ready to be cut to their over sized dock lengths before mitering.

Tested fit up. Like I said some still a bit tight but this can easily be fixed with using the spoke shave blade as a scraper and scraping the base rebate to thin it down.

Miter spline jig for drawer box lids. 

To make a miter splines in the drawer box lids I needed to make a jig. The miter splines for the doors will follow the same principal just on a larger scale.

The jig requires drawing a center axis line this is in line with the center of the saw blade. I machined these miter splines on the spindle molder.

The other lines are the angles of each section where there is going to be a miter spline on the drawer box lids. To not get confused I marked the lines A-H and marked the sketch up drawing of the drawer box lids in accordance to the lines.

To keep things clean and easy to read don't have the lines meeting right to the end of the axis point have them ending about 20mm away from it.

Each line would have two fences. What these fences do is act as grain breakers. The saw blade will cut through these than into the drawer box lids. Make the cut first into the jig before running the real thing as it puts less strain on the jig.

These fences would be screwed into the jig

To prevent the drawer box lids from moving toggle clamps screwed to the fences would clamp down the lid to the jig.

Cutting the paduke splines to fit into the miter rebate slots. I only want the splines to over hang a bit. The excess will be cleaned up with spoke shave and flex Japanese saw.

I cut the splines with one of my Japanese hand saws using the cross cut teeth.

Glued in the paduke splines with polyurethane glue and used the blue painters tape as a clamp. Due to the expanding qualities of the glue it made the splines move a bit thats why the blue painters tape was needed.

Before cleaning up the stringy inlay from the bases and drawer box lids as well as the miter splines I needed to clean my stones as well as make them flat. I decided on buying a diamond lapping plate. This was about 230 dollars, money well worth spent.

What the diamond plate does is that it flats your sharpening stones as well as cleaning up gunk build up. Its best to rub the lapping plate over the stones under running water since the lapping plate tends to stick to the stones a bit. The brand for this is DMT.

After cleaning up stones I sharpened my spoke shave blade and the thinest card scraper. Made the stringy inlay for the tops and bases flush with the rest of the panel.

Planed down the miter splines so they would be flush with the edges of the drawer box lids. To remove most of the bulk I used a flexi Japanese saw. This saw means I can get right to the edge of the edging with out damaging it and pretty much removing the scrap all in one go. Any left over waste was pared out with the spoke shave blade. I found it a lot easier to just use the blade instead of using it in the holder.

Was best to clamp everything in the bench vice.

Cleaning out the top section of the paduke stringy inlay. Paduke breaks out a lot and was very hard to get a clean joint.

Repairing some of the joints with small files. Some of the repairs are really bad and will require further work.

Began routering the drawer box lids, sides, fronts and backs place a small 45 deg bevel on them.

Had a little miss up lucky that this mistake was in the off cut section. This will mean that I will have to not take off that much on the other side if I want to remove this whole damaged section. What happened was that the router slipped due to not having enough working surface area to the plate. Stupid mistake really not thinking clearly.

To create extra surface area I clamped up a piece of timber with the parts I was routering in the vice, this made things a lot easier.

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